|
Declawing! What You Need To Know
Many people have been led to believe that declawing cats is a routine, relatively pain-free procedure, similar to spaying and neutering. Unfortunately, many veterinarians perpetuate this idea, because the surgery is a very profitable one.
At Animal Hospital of McHenry, we believe that our most important job is to educate you, the cat owner, so you can make an informed decision for your cat's well-being. We will gladly forfeit the easy money gained from the surgery to know that you have a happier, healthier pet.
In order to understand the declaw surgery, it is necessary to know a little of the cat's anatomy. The cat's claw is not a toenail at the end of the toe as in other animals. It is a movable digit attached to muscle as a finger might be. Strong ligaments and tendons give power to extend and retract the claws. This is unique in cats. Without this your cat would not be able to properly grasp, hold or establish footing for proper walking, running, springing climbing or stretching.
Declawing is much more then simply trimming these claws to the quick. Instead, declawing is essentially an amputation of part of the toe. The bone that the claw is attached to must be removed and the ligaments and nerves are severed.
Remember that after a declaw, a cat cannot "rest" his feet until they feel better He must continue to walk, scratch in his litter box and attempt to jump, despite the pain.
Perhaps the most obvious demonstration of the pain involved in the declaw surgery occurs when the cat is recovering from the anesthesia. When awakening from a spay or neuter cats are typically calm and quiet. In contrast, when recovering from anesthesia following a declaw, cats often thrash around in the cage and vocalize loudly. When injectable painkillers are used with the anesthetic the recovery goes more smoothly but they eventually wear off and the cat is again in pain.
Besides the physical drawbacks, declawing may change your cat's personality and behavior. Knowing he doesn't have the means to defend himself, some cats follow the precept of the best defense is a good offense, and will bite at the least provocation. Others become depressed and lose the loving personality that made you choose him to start with.
It is also not unusual for a declawed cat to stop using the litter box. Immediately after surgery it is necessary to use shredded or pelleted paper rather than the regular litter. This can cause some cats to stop using the litter box and they sometimes do not begin again even once the regular litter is returned. Litter box problems are the number one reason that cats are euthanized.
Scratching on a surface is a normal instinct for cats. Often referred to as "sharpening the claws" the action actually serves many purposes. It aids in removing the worn outer layer of the claw and is also the cat's way of leaving its scent to mark its territory. It provides a quick and efficient means for the cat to stretch and tone his muscles.
Cats need to scratch somewhere and with only a small amount of patience they can learn to use an appropriate surface.
The most important step is to give your cat a suitable substitute for your furniture. Remember it must be suitable 'from the cat's point of view'! A scratching "post" can be easily and inexpensively built from scraps of lumber and carpeting. Although we use the term "post", often the post shape is not the most desirable one for the cat. Most posts tend to be too small and unstable.
The Ideal Scratching Post
--First of all the scratching post must be sturdy. If it starts to wobble as your cat gets bigger, he/she will not want to use it.
-- It must be of sufficient size so that an adult cat can fully stretch while scratching.
-- The post needs to be covered with a material that your cat finds desirable. Most of the scratching posts found in stores are covered with plush carpeting that is impossible for the cat to grab onto. Most cats like short napped "indoor-outdoor" carpeting while others prefer burlap or cardboard. Never use any carpeting that you currently are using in your house. If you already have a large sturdy store-bought scratching post often the carpeting can be turned inside out so the cat can scratch on the jute backing.
--One simple and cheap, although somewhat messy, alternative to building a scratching post is simply a log. Some cats prefer scratching the bark on a log to any other surface.
The cat must associate the scratching post with praise and play. Center your play time with your cat around this area and praise them every time they use it to scratch. If your cat has already gotten into the habit of scratching on a couch or chair at first this area will need to be covered with plastic or foil. A few strips of double stick tape also works well as cats hate the feel of the tape on their feet. The scratching post should initially be placed near the area your cat has been scratching. Once he/she is using the post well it can be gradually moved to where you would prefer to have it. If your cat persists in wanting to scratch the furniture a water spray bottle works well to startle them away. Scolding usually doesn't help as cats quickly figure out that it's ok as long as you're not there.
How to Trim Nails Trimming nails is a simple part of basic cat care that ensures that your cat can't accidentally scratch or snag anything. When started young, and handled calmly, cats soon realize that its no big deal. Trimming cats nails can be done quickly and easily. A trim every 3-4 weeks is sufficient to keep claws under control. Since cat claws are white and the 'quicks' are pink, it is easy to tell how far to trim them back. We would be happy to demonstrate how to trim the claws, if you're unsure at first. If you decide not to declaw your cat, we also offer free nail trims.
If a declaw is done incorrectly it is possible for the claws to grow back, when this occurs the new claw is often deformed, growing from the top or bottom of the paw. If to much toe was removed, it can result in periodic lameness as well.
Also visit
|





